Beso by Patria Review

Our second visit to Patria after not going for 7 years.

We dined here on Saturday February 3rd, 2024.

Venturing into Patria felt at first like a peculiar odyssey, starting with an awkward shuffle through somewhat morose, dark curtains. Once through the perturbing curtains (designed I supposed, to keep the winter cold out), the interior was impressive upon entry – boasting an ambiance that’s both visually and aromatically alluring. With its lofty ceilings and cozy seating, the place whispers of promise and sophistication.

Once seated, the cocktail roster served as the evening’s opening act, with the Spanish Manhattan stealing the spotlight – a concoction so divinely mixed, it could very well have been the nectar of the gods, blending bourbon with agar bitters and Pedro Ximenez with a master’s touch. The Negroni Español, too, was a hit, balancing Campari and vermouth in harmony that left us nodding in approval.

On to the appetizers, where Patria played with a symphony of flavors. The Monkfish was a revelation – tender flesh encased in a delightfully crisp skin, arriving on a sizzling plate that belied freshness and care. The Seabream, dressed in a ceviche-inspired ensemble of capers, tomatoes, cucumbers, olive oil, and vinaigrette, was a refreshing melody of tastes and textures. And who knew charred cabbage could evoke such enthusiasm from us? A novel twist on an otherwise mundane vegetable, rendering it a vegetarian delight — and we’re not even vegetarians!

Yet, not all dishes sang in harmony. The Roasted Bone Marrow was a misguided attempt at innovation, its natural richness lost beneath an overly sweet “beef cheek” muddle, with salt desperately trying to bridge the gap. The dish was a far cry from the marrow’s potential glory, leaving much to be desired. Equally lackluster were the chickpeas – a dish so devoid of creativity, it was as if the kitchen had simply given up, presenting a bland ensemble of chickpeas, tomatoes, and spices.

The bone-in rib eye, priced at a steep $135, was the evening’s greatest letdown. Promised as medium rare but served with an inconsistency and thwarted by patches of near-rawness, it was basic at best. Accompanied by an unhelpful ornament of whole roasted garlic still in its husk, the dish failed to justify its premium price tag, embodying disappointment in both presentation and palate.

Patria, with its seasoned tenure in the Toronto food scene, should indeed know better. This menu relaunch, while it had its moments of brilliance, also had missteps that were hard to overlook. For a place that prides itself on an upscale dining experience, the expectation is not just for good food but for culinary savvy every step of the way.

Let’s hope Patria rediscovers its culinary consistency soon, because no matter how beautiful the setting, it can’t overshadow the core of what makes dining truly fine: the universal deliciousness of the cuisine. As well, since this was our second visit after a number of years we were hoping for greatness.

We gave you another try Patria, and we just can’t anymore.

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First review:

We went once in the winter of 2014 and remember the food as being just OK, not exceptional. Something about the ambiance was not conducive to lounging. I think it was too cold inside and inhospitable. It was in direct contrast to a tapas place like Bar Raval, which feels cozy. I may give it another try if @chowhoundgta is up to it.